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Talking With Tom!
Tom Courtney By Lisa A. Lawrence
Although he was born in Alaska, Tom Courtney calls Fort Walton Beach, Florida home. As a military brat, he lived in numerous places. Even as an adult, Tom continued to move around. He lived in Athens, Greece for two years, London for two years, Dayton, Ohio for two years, Newburgh, NY for two years, Panama City, Florida for five years, a brief summer in Atlanta, then Dothan, Alabama for a year, Washington, DC for twelve years . . . and in his current town of Kingston, New York for three years. When Tom initially started college, he studied pre-engineering. Hearing the fashion world calling his name, Tom switched to the two -year AS Program in Fashion Merchandising and Marketing. By the time he finished his AS degree, he was selected into the Navy's Outstanding Scholars Intern Program in Washington, DC. Through this program, the Navy paid for Tom to earn his bachelor’s degree in Business, with an emphasis in Contract Law, as well as to take some graduate-level courses. Tom continues to take graduate courses and computer courses here and there in order to keep his skills current. Tom's work experience is quite varied. He spent six years in retail, working in children's wear, menswear, ladies and men's shoes, infants’ wear, display, and fine jewelry. This is where his love of fashion started. He spent the next twelve years working for the Navy as a civilian. Seven of those years were spent acting as a cost analyst and contract specialist negotiator for the TRIDENT Missile Program. Tom then became heavily involved in the development of a software program as a Navy panel member for his Command. The software developers were so impressed with Tom's skills that they hired him away from the Navy to work for them. However, after a few years, Tom decided to change his whole career to go work with Robert Tonner. When he was a child, Tom's parents were both fascinated by toys and dolls, so he and his older siblings (two brothers, one sister) had tons of them. The first doll Tom bought when he worked in retail was actually a gift for his mother: a 14" Madame Alexander Sleeping Beauty®. His current collection has over 600 dolls! While they are mostly Tonner fashion dolls, his collection also includes Betsy McCall®, Ann Estelle®, Kish®, Cissy®, Gene®, Kitty Collier®, Tiny Kitty®, Silkstone Barbie,® Sideshow Toys®, Tonner porcelains®, Kelly & Friends®, CED®, Bratz®, novelty figures, and an occasional Disney Princess or two. 'I used to have almost all of the [Franklin Mint®] porcelain Scarlett dolls," Tom states, "but I traded many of them to other friends, whose collections were going more in that direction while I was getting more into vinyls/hard plastics. The only FM vinyl I have now is Scarlett O'Hara. No Danbury Mint® . . . but my mother has plenty of their child dolls." Tom's favorite dolls include Midnight Garden Tyler®, Natasha American Model®, 1950's Decades of Fashion porcelain®, Tiny Kitty Showgirl from Modern Doll, Scottie Girl Sophie®, and 14" Betsy McCall Irish Dancer. Tom is not the only collector in the family. "Mama has about 1000 dolls now! Many of them are garage sale type dolls that she redresses and cleans up; about 30% of them are new. She has a few vintage Ginny® dolls as well as some vintage Shirley Temple® and Alexander® dolls. Mama collects child and baby dolls; she only has a few fashion dolls. [My sister] Janet has 'don't touch me' type porcelain portrait dolls, and she also has tiny dolls like Kripplebush®, Alexander's Wendy®, and Wee Patsy®. Janet is also very fond of religious-themed dolls."
Tom's Mother, sister and two nieces Tom began sewing clothing when he was 19. "All of the women on both sides of my family sew," Tom notes. "They have taught me a great deal about hand techniques. But I would hardly call it couture! These ladies sewed mostly for quilting or clothing necessity." He also took a basic course in sewing during his Fashion Merchandising studies. "The rest was self-learned or was absorbed through sharing techniques with other sewing collectors," Tom states. Asked if he could recommend any books, Tom responds, "As crazy as it sounds, Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Home Sewing. I have several books on couture techniques, but none really on draping. It's hard to recommend these because they are written at all levels. I also collect books, so whenever I see one I like. . . I grab it! You can never have enough. For drawing: Drawing on the Right Side of the Brain and Drawing on the Creative Artist Within, both by Betty Edwards - two books that will change your artistic skills forever." Tom started sewing for dolls in his early twenties. Prior to working for Tonner, Tom did have a few of his doll designs on eBay®. He has also done several charity dolls. Since joining Tonner, he no longer sells his dolls or outfits. Now he keeps his designs for himself or gives them as an occasional gift for a friend. Lucky friends! Tom's designs are generally inspired by the fabric he finds. "I love couture fabrics,” Tom admits, “even though they are expensive. I have a closet full of them at home . . . probably over 200 pieces!" When doing period pieces, especially those with undergarments, Tom will research the outfits for authenticity: "That being said, I also like to add my own touches to the items, too, so they may not be 100% authentic. For the 1950's things, I talk to my mom and my aunt - they can tell me just about anything I need to know. Robert and Joe (our new Design Manager) are also amazingly well-versed on historical clothing, and they always have great input as well." Tom buys his fabrics almost entirely in retail stores. His favorite place to get fabric? Paris! Since most of us will never have the opportunity to shop for fabric in Paris, I asked Tom to describe what it is like. "It depends on where you buy the fabrics," Tom explains. "Up in Montmartre, there are some fabric stores; they are not unlike going to a large fabric supplier in the US. In more central Paris, on Rue de la Paix near Place Vendôme, there is an amazing shop called Maupiou. This store is very different from the shops in Montmartre. Maupiou sells couture fabrics; some are pretty fresh from certain houses. You walk in the small store and you are surrounded by some of the world's most opulent fabrics. Two tables are on either side of you, with bolts of fabric all piled on each other. The walls have cubbyholes with coordinating fabrics on bolts. It's not unusual to see a fabric that is 450 Euros/metre [about $562 US]. The attendants work with you to handle the fabrics and eventually they cut each piece and wrap it in tissue. They handle the fabrics like fine pieces of art, especially during cutting. The fabrics are separated by type and in some instances, by color (so it's easier to choose coordinates). All around the boutique are framed pictures from various couture houses and a draped swatch of fabric that matches those used in the image. The windows are changed regularly and they have amazingly luscious fabrics draped and pinned, some on dress forms that actually look like a complete gown. For me, buying doll fabrics, they will sell by the ½ metre, which is wonderful considering the prices on some. Sometimes when I have visited, based on what I am looking for, they may pull out a bolt from the back that is brand new, or may be custom ordered. It really is an experience at Maupiou!" Following the 2004 Paris Convention, Tom wrote to me to tell me that Maupiou has a website with a 360 degree tour! "It's at www.maupiou.com. Go to 'English' and click on 'In The Heart of Paris.' The 360 degree tour is inside the image . . . very cool!!!!" When Tom is asked whether he has ever made design changes to his personal doll outfits due to the unavailability of the correct materials, he responds, "For my own stuff? My designs are not that precise to be too nailed down. Changes in design during construction usually happen when I mess something up! My drawings are also only done in black & white, and there's loads of interpretation. The real design actually happens during construction as opposed to the sketch for me. For the [Tonner] company, though, this is all done by Robert and Design. I manage production, but I don't make any changes during production unless they are directed by Robert or Joe.” From conception to finished product, Tom's designs take varying lengths of time to complete, depending on the complexity or the finishing. "I love beadwork," Tom states, "and this can take longer than making the outfit sometimes (which is why I try to find pre-beaded goods). Suits I can make in a day. Gowns usually can be completed in a weekend. Hand-work can take considerably longer." As well as being inspired by fabrics, Tom also finds inspiration elsewhere. "My nieces are gorgeous young ladies," Tom says. "I made pageant dresses for the eldest of them, and they are all expecting prom dresses! They inspire me a great deal." Sherry Miller repainted this Tyler to look like Tom's niece
Tom's Niece wearing Tom's Creation Tom continues, "I've made cocktail dresses, wedding gowns, bridesmaid gowns, skirts, blouses, and pants for human scale, both men and women. I've also made a lot of Halloween costumes for children and adults, because Halloween is my favorite time of year. [When sewing for people,] I use mostly commercial patterns and adapt them because I am not too well versed on fit . . . so I need help there. But I can combine several patterns to create something a bit more original. Whenever I would sew for someone, I would ask their input on what they liked and didn't like. We would even go and have the client try on dresses to see how individual taste comes through. Then, I would do sketches and they would comment. Finally, the dress would get made. Bear in mind, though, that I haven't sewn anything for human scale since 1998!" Tom's Wedding Gowns In the movies, he has also found inspiration in Gone With the Wind and any movie with an Adrian/Edith Head costume in it. As for actresses, again Tom looks to the past. [I'm inspired by] all of them when they hit the red carpet," Tom admits, "[with my favorites] including Dietrich, Lana Turner, Vivien Leigh, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, and Cyd Charisse. Sophia Loren and Raquel Welch are still knock-outs!” His favorite modern actresses include Ashley Judd, Halle Berry, Cate Blanchett, Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicole Kidman, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Renée Zellweger. Of these, if given the chance, Tom would love to design gowns for Cate Blanchett or Nicole Kidman! Tom's favorite modern designers include Tom Ford, Elie Saab, Kenneth Cole, Gaultier, & Randolph Duke. His favorite part of the design process is drawing the outfit. His least favorite? Making it! Or, as Tom states, "Trying to figure out how to make it." Asked if he would prefer to just design things, leaving the sewing up to someone else, Tom doesn't equivocate. "In a heartbeat," he confesses. "If I could only make some of the things I've drawn! (Sigh.) Again, this is where my inexperience really frustrates me. I draw freehand with a mechanical pencil. I love drawing, and I think I'm pretty good at it. I wouldn't call myself an illustrator, but my drawing skills have really developed nicely over the years . . . and it is great fun for me! I draw mostly when I travel." While Tom has made accessories for his doll outfits, including shoes, hats and jewelry, they are "not his thing." "There are many other talented people who excel at these crafts,” he explains, “and I prefer to buy things like these ready- or custom-made by people who know how to do it right." Tom adds, "I do make a lot of hats, though - that's pretty specific to the outfit - but I also buy hats and design around them. Kathy Moreau made the hat that goes with my 'Short Skirt, Long Jacket' Mei Li. It was actually the hat that inspired me to make an outfit to match." Asked whether he has ever done any repainting, Tom replies, "Yes, but I prefer 'enhancing.' My repaints need a lot of work and practice. 'Enhancing' an eye/lip color or adding make-up is much easier for me, and I prefer dolls in my collection to retain their original character. That's the reason I bought it!" Tom's doll designs have won several awards. "My Queen Elizabeth won Third Place for the People's Choice and First Place for the Judge's Choice at the 1999 Fashion Doll Convention in Anaheim," Tom recalls. "I received a Second Place ribbon for an American Model I entered in the 2000 Portland Convention. I received a First Place ribbon for the Kitty Collier I entered at the Tonner Doll Convention in 2000. (The doll was not supposed to be judged, but they presented it with a blue ribbon anyway.) Both my Empress Elizabeth and Emperor Franz Josef won blue ribbons in their respective categories at UFDC 2000. I also received three blue ribbons for dolls entered at Modern Doll Convention in 2002; of the three, one doll received Judge's Choice and the other two dolls tied for People's Choice. I also won a Judge's Choice award at the 2003 Paris Fashion Doll Festival. I've taken ribbons in everything I've entered, but as you can see, that hasn't been that many." Following the 2004 Paris Convention, Tom wrote me about his awards. "Hi, Lisa . . . as it quite humbled me when I related to a friend about [always receiving awards for my contest submissions,] she pointed out to me that my Barbie that I entered last year in the Paris Fashion Doll Festival did not take an award. . . . And to further trash my streak . . . my Tyler entered this year did not either . . . oh, well . . . the winning dolls were absolutely gorgeous! I tell you, that Paris group can be very humbling . . . they are an amazingly talented group of artists there . . . from France and Italy . . . absolutely incredible creations!!! That's OK . . . my Tiny Kitty did take Judge's Choice! I thought I'd let you know . . . my statement about always taking an award when entering was not accurate. . . . I suppose I got carried away with it all . . . LOL!" Nothing like friends to burst our bubbles and keep us humble! If given the opportunity to design outfits for Tonner, Tom notes, "If Robert asked, sure! But I actually prefer it as a hobby. I 'm not a fan of making anything a second time. The Design Room can make several samples of a single design during the review process. I don't have that kind of patience; that's why it's best kept as a hobby for me, so I can still enjoy it." Tom has known Robert Tonner since 1996. "I had seen him over the years at various doll events," Tom recalls. "We became friends and great admirers of modern fashion dolls. We started talking about my working for him as early as 1999, but it finally came about in 2000. I wanted to design for Robert, but he didn't really need a designer. Also, my inexperience in design and rendering didn't make me the best candidate. However, after we explored my business background and bizarre attention to details (thanks to the Navy), Robert realized that I would be much more useful in the front office with customer service, production, etc." Tom became Tonner's Director of Marketing.
Tom's Office
"I don't really consider myself a 'Marketing' person by the standard definition," Tom explains. "My duties are marketing related, but our best marketing is not done by numbers, statistics, and market studies. Our best marketing ideas come from Robert's understanding of his collectors. When I first started at the company, I was involved with the Club Newsletter, the catalogs, and eventually the website. Over time, I became more involved in the Club, production, product planning and management, and information resources/dissemination." "Right now," he continues, "I write and assemble the Club Newsletter, catalogs, and advertising layout and text for preparation by our very talented graphics company. I style the dolls for photography and at shows. I manage information flow to the retailers, the media, and the collectors’ club. I also manage production and the purchasing of materials for production, and assist with quality control via the factory and in conjunction with the doll hospital. I also do the website. I work very closely with customer service to teach about new products and answer inquiries from collectors and retailers." Tom has no involvement in the design process itself. Also, while Tom is responsible for quality control, it's Tonner's design team that chooses the fabrics. Tom took textile courses in college, but learned the production process mainly from the Navy. "You'd be surprised how production on a missile really isn't that much different from doll-making," Tom states. "As for actual doll-making production, I've learned a great deal from Robert and our factory. They are brilliant when it comes to innovations, and I work very closely with them." Tom in China; learning to root doll hair Asked about meetings, Tom responds, "We do have formal meetings where our whole management team brings everything together in a roundtable forum. Robert and I talk a great deal; he always makes time when any of us needs to speak with him." "In a way," Tom reflects, "we all kind of have input into what dolls come out and what they look like. Robert is very interested in hearing what we all have to say, because we have both collectors and non-collectors here. It's a great balance." As to naming dolls, Tom continues, "We all have input here, too . . . or else Robert has already created the name in his head." Having heard that Tom works about 80 hours per week, I wondered how he avoids burnout. "My mother once told me that if you find a job you love doing," Tom recalls, “you'll never work a day in your life." Tom does note, however, that he usually works closer to 56 hours per week, with the longer hours occurring before special events. Being inundated with dolls on a daily basis has done nothing to curb Tom's interest in them: "I'm even more fascinated with them than ever!" He states, "Learning how they are made and designed, and all that goes into it, is very absorbing . . . and exciting! New projects can always be very thrilling. I still love shopping for new dolls, not all of them Tonner. I love IDEX and Toy Fair, and seeing all the new collections. Dolls still fascinate me, and they will always bring me great joy." Tom's work at Tonner is by no means limited to the Tyler Wentworth® line. Asked which lines he works on, Tom responds, "All of them with regards to production, catalog, product description, photography, the planning of advertising, shipping information, etc. I don't only work on any single line of dolls; I manage all production. The only thing I do not do is Effanbee, because they are a separate company. Tyler is my favorite, but I am quite partial to Betsy McCall, too." While Tom loves to design outfits for his dolls, he has no interest in ever designing his own doll or having his own doll company. "I just don't see this ever happening," Tom responds; "it's not my cup of tea." And if Robert wanted to do a "Tom" doll? Apparently horrified at the idea, Tom replies, "Absolutely not!" Prior to working for Tonner, Tom attended just about all the major doll conventions each year. Now, he averages about 5-6 events per year, including Paris, Modern Doll Convention, CU Atlanta, UFDC, ToyFair, and IDEX. While attending conventions, he takes the opportunity to walk around and see what the other doll companies are doing.
Robert Tonner, Alexandra Forbes and Tom at the 2004 Paris Convention Banquet Since he has a lot of interaction with the collectors, both at conventions and at the occasional doll club meetings he attends, Tom uses these opportunities to learn what Tonner collectors want. "You can't tell anyone what to love or not love in a doll,” Tom states. “It is personal and emotional. So now, when I meet collectors, I listen to what they do or do not enjoy about dolls. Tonner collectors are quite intelligent, have very discriminating tastes, and know what they want. It would be an insult to the Tonner collectors to underestimate their taste and/or intelligence." Asked how the Tonner Company has changed since he began working there, Tom responds, "We're bigger! But that's hardly because of me alone. We just have a really great team, and I don't think there's anything we can't do! We have each brought a little of our systematic ways into Robert's company culture, and it works in a magical way. Additions of new doll lines increase my workload exponentially . . . but, hey, bring it on!" Asked what his hobbies are, Tom laughs. "You mean other than working for a doll company? I love to cook. I love traveling, specifically Europe. I collect Lego and play with those often. I love to draw in general, and not always fashion-related things (I did my own Christmas cards four years in a row; those were lovely!). I also like movies and Hollywood related-things. I love angels, architecture, and photography . . . especially when they are all blended together."
The Annunciation One of Tom's Christmas Cards. The original was 18" X 22" and took 72 hours to draw with a mechanical pencil. Loves traveling? I'll say! "When you realize there is a whole world out there, Tom notes, "it's hard to stay at home. I have been almost everywhere in the US except Hawaii. Abroad, I've been to London (lived there), Paris (frequently), Amsterdam (4 times), Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice, Zurich, San Juan, Athens (lived there and traveled back as an adult in the 1990s), Canary Islands, all over Ireland, Munich (and all of Ludwig's crazy castles!), extended driving tours of the Northwest, Northeast, and South of France (including the most incredible cathedrals and architecture . . . and Lyonnaise silk!), Bruges, Hong Kong, Hangchow (where silk was invented), and, of course, mainland China. I love to travel (mostly alone . . . no one else to answer to), and I always take my Minolta. That way, I can relive my travels." So, with all this travel, I wondered if Tom spoke any foreign languages. He replied, "Basic French, enough to get by, but not conversational. That, and I can tell you to wash your hands in Spanish." Now that he is happily ensconced in his dream job, Tom's professional plans for the future don't venture far from the Tonner Company. "[For the next 20 years], hopefully, I'll still be at Tonner," Tom says, "if they will keep me! Robert has many exciting plans for the future, and I hope to figure in those plans as the company expands into different areas. Personally, I'd like to find my own home and delve deeper into things like writing and drawing - should I develop more spare time!" Writing? What kind of writing? "I have some stories in my head that I would like to refine into manuscripts," Tom explains. "I have both child and adult audiences in mind. A good story shouldn't have to be edited for children; it should be okay with both audiences from the beginning. Harry Potter is an excellent example of a story that appeals to both children and adults, whereas Anne Rice's vampire series isn't really appropriate for children. I'd like to bridge the gap between the two, but I want my story to be completely original and not too influenced by previously published material. Finding a truly original story, though - that will take some time, but I have some ideas. I also would like to write about my family, because there are some wonderful stories there!" Undoubtedly! I can't wait to read them! For more pictures and information on Tom, please see his Private Collection!
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